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Hiva Oa is the largest of the southern islands - has always been
the rival of Nuku Hiva which is now the administrative capital of the Marquesas.
However, Hiva Oa still has a pre-eminence within the southern group.
Hiva
Oa is shaped like a seahorse and has a mountain range running southwest to
northeast whose main peaks, Mt Temetiu and Mt Feani form a real wall around
Atuona. As a consequence access between the different valleys is quite difficult
but the landscape is
impressive.
Atuona, peaceful little port at the
head of the Taaoa bay, has emerged from obscurity for being the last resting
place of Paul Gauguin and of the singer Jacques
Brel. The tombs of these famous personalities, places of great
pilgrimage, are on the side of the Calvary cemetery. In the village, the
Gauguin Museum displays items related to the painter's stay and
has copies of his works. The very famous "House of Pleasure"
where Gauguin lived has been rebuilt near the museum.
In the outskirts
of Atuona, heading towards the airport on a site dominating Tahauku bay and
Hanakee Islet a memorial to the singer Jacques Brel has been
erected. Near the airstrip, Brel's little Beechcraft Bonanza airplane, baptized
"Jojo", is on display. Also, very close to Tahauku, a track leads to Tehueko, a
petroglyph site.
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